Fit the DIG™ GPS pendulum mount
Tack Tube #1 to the top of the stick, fit Tube #2 so the GPS pivot lines up over the boom pin and the bucket pin, hang the counterbalance plate, fit the GPS rod and receiver, and check the mount through full travel.
- DIG™ Kit
The DIG™ receiver rides on a pendulum at the top of the stick. Tube #1 welds to the side of the stick. Tube #2 slides into it and carries the pivot. The counterbalance plate hangs from that pivot, so the receiver stays upright as the stick swings.
Line the pivot up over the stick's pins now and calibration is simpler later.
- Tube #1, sticking out from the side of the stick, with its two-plate removal flange.
- Tube #2. Its short end slides into Tube #1; its arm rises to the pivot.
- Pivot bolt, with a felt washer each side. The grease nipple is on top.
- Counterbalance plate, hanging from the bolt, heavy base at the bottom.
- Cable loop on top of the plate.
- 5/8 in. rod through the base, held by lock nuts.
- GPS receiver on top of the rod.
- GPS cable, up through the loop and down, with slack.
Before you start
- You've read the DIG safety rules.
- Before you lock out: the stick is hanging straight down (vertical), so you can line up the pivot with a plumb bob.
- The machine is on level ground, engine off, key out, hydraulic pressure relieved, and an approved lock-out/tag-out device is on.
- The machine battery is disconnected.
- All electronics, sensors and harnesses within 1 m (3 ft) of the weld are removed or isolated.
- No open flames nearby, and someone is on fire watch with a Class ABC extinguisher.
You need: Tube #1, Tube #2, the counterbalance plate with its pivot bolt, felt washers, metal washers and spacers, the GPS rod (5/8 in. thread) with its lock nuts, your GPS receiver, a welder and welding protection (mask, gloves, eye protection), a work platform or fall arrest, a grease gun, and a second person to watch clearances.
How long it takes: no set time; the tacking and lining up take the longest. The final welds come later, after the whole kit is fitted and checked.
Fit Tube #1
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Hold Tube #1 against the side of the stick, near the top
Tube #1 sticks straight out from the side plate of the stick, flange end out. Mark the spot.

Tube #1 on the side of the stick, flange on the outer end. -
Angle it so the pivot will sit above the boom pin
Tube #2 will rise from Tube #1 to the pivot F. Set Tube #1 so that F ends up straight above the boom pin H, and so the flange bolts won't be in the way when Tube #2 goes in.
Tube #1 seen end-on on the side of the stick. Tube #2's arm rises past the flange bolts to the pivot F, straight above the boom pin H. The dashed line carries on down to the bucket pin B. -
Tack weld Tube #1
Tack it only: a few small welds that hold it in place. The full welds come after the whole kit has been checked through every position.
Fit Tube #2 and line up the pivot
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Slide Tube #2 into Tube #1
Push its short round end into Tube #1, with the arm pointing up. Push it in far enough that the pivot at the top of the arm clears the boom and everything else on the machine.

Tube #2 in Tube #1, the arm pointing up. -
Line up F over H and B
Turn Tube #2 until the pivot F sits on one straight up-and-down line with the boom pin H and the bucket pin B. Check it with a plumb bob from F with the stick hanging vertical.
Left: F straight above H and B. This is the aim. Right: F off to one side, an offset. -
Can't line it up? Measure the offset and write it down
A small level offset is acceptable when the mount can't go in the ideal way. With the stick vertical, measure the level distance from F across to the H–B line, note whether F sits toward the cab or away from it, and write it down. You enter it during calibration (Enter the GPS offset). With an offset, accuracy drops slightly at extreme angles.
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Tack weld Tube #2 to the removal flange
Same welding rules as above. Tack it to the flange: the bolted plates let you take the whole GPS mount off later.

Tube #2's arm tacked to the removal flange.
Hang the counterbalance plate
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Lay out the pivot hardware
The pivot bolt, a spacer, metal washers and two felt washers.
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2
3
- Pivot bolt and washers. The two brown felt washers go one each side of Tube #2's pivot.
- Grease nipple on the pivot end of Tube #2.
- Counterbalance plate.
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Bolt the plate to the pivot
Put the bolt through Tube #2's pivot and the counterbalance plate, with a felt washer on each side of the pivot, and the washers and spacer as laid out.

Bolted up: a felt washer each side, grease nipple on top. -
Tighten until the felt washers damp the swing
The plate should still swing, but slowly. Don't over-tighten: the receiver must be able to level itself while you work.
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Grease the pivot
Pump grease into the grease nipple on top of the pivot. Do it again regularly while the machine is working.
Fit the rod and the receiver
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Thread the rod through the plate's base
Thread the 5/8 in. rod through the hole in the base of the counterbalance plate. Set its height so the receiver will clear everything, then tighten the lock nuts above and below the base.
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Screw the receiver onto the rod
Screw your receiver onto the top of the rod until it is snug. Then check nothing on the receiver touches the plate.
Check the mount through full travel
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Check F still lines up with H and B
With the stick still hanging vertical and the machine locked out, check with the plumb bob.
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Take the lock-out off and start the machine
Everyone off the platform and clear of the stick first. Reconnect the battery, then the operator starts the engine.
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Move the stick slowly all the way in, then all the way out
The operator moves it slowly while a second person watches the mount from a safe distance. Stop at once if anything touches.
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Watch the receiver stay upright
Tube #2 tilts with the stick, but the counterbalance plate should hang straight down, keeping the receiver upright. Some swing can't be avoided, but it should never reach extreme angles.
Stick in, vertical, stick out: Tube #2 tilts, the counterbalance hangs straight down, and the receiver stays upright. The green dashed line marks straight up. -
Lock the machine out again
Lower the bucket, shut the engine off, take the key out, relieve the pressure, disconnect the battery and fit the lock-out device before the next page.
Common mistakes
- Pivot bolt clamped tight, so the pendulum can't swing and the receiver tilts with the stick.
- A downward radio antenna touching the counterbalance plate.
- No grease on the pivot.
- Final-welding before the full-travel check.
- Not measuring a horizontal offset between F and the H–B line.
Next: Mount the stick and bucket sensors. Problems later: Fix DIG problems.
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