Learning Center

Connect the power harness to the battery

Wire the power harness straight to the tractor battery and plug it into the main harness. Power from anywhere else causes Wi-Fi drops, hydraulic hiccups and lost RTK.

  • Full Automation Kit
  • Guidance Only Kit

The Ditch Assist® Control Module powers itself and your GPS receiver from the power harness. Wire it straight to the tractor battery.

Power from anywhere else dips and runs short of current. That shows up later as Wi-Fi drops, jumpy hydraulics and lost RTK, which are hard to trace back to the wiring.

Before you start

  • The implement lowered to the ground
  • The tractor engine off and the key out
  • You know where the Control Module will go, so you know where the harness has to reach (Mount the Control Module)

You need: the power harness, the main harness, a wrench that fits the nuts on the battery terminals, and cable ties.

Time: about 10 minutes.

Know the parts

The power harness, battery end to plug The power harness runs from the tractor battery to the main harness. Its two ring terminals go straight onto the battery's positive and negative terminals. Along the harness are its fuses, which must be pushed fully in, and its on/off switch, which is also an emergency stop. It ends in a Deutsch plug that locks into the main harness. Ring terminals + − Battery only Fuses push each fully in On/off switch an emergency stop Deutsch plug into the main harness
The power harness: two ring terminals for the battery, the fuses, the on/off switch and the Deutsch plug that locks into the main harness. Where the fuses and switch sit along the harness can differ from the drawing; the parts are the same.
Power wiring and check points The power harness runs from the tractor battery terminals, through its fuses and power switch, to a plug on the main harness and into the Ditch Assist control module. The module powers the GPS receiver through the GPS breakout harness and, on the Full Automation Kit, drives the valve solenoids. The harness has fuses (no count or ratings given). Four check points are marked: 1, ring terminals straight on the battery terminals; 2, the harness fuses, pushed in firmly; 3, switch on and the module lights come on; 4, the Status 2 light blinks when GPS data is arriving (drawn as a lamp on its own, because no source shows where it sits on the module). The module is a black case with its ports facing down; the main harness plugs into it from below. A panel shows what never to power it from: a trailer plug, an auxiliary connector block or an in-cab power strip, because power dips cause dropouts, lost RTK and jumpy hydraulics. The system runs on 12 V or 24 V (9 to 32 V). +−Battery12 or 24 V (9–32 V)Fuses: push in firmlySwitchon: module lights come onPlugto the main harnessControl moduleGPS receiverpowered bythe moduleValveFull AutomationKit onlyStatus 2 lightblinks whenGPS dataarrivesNever power it fromTrailer plugAux blockPower stripPower dips cause dropouts, lost RTKand jumpy hydraulics.1234

The whole power path: battery, power harness, main harness, Control Module. The module also powers the GPS receiver and, on a Full Automation Kit, drives the valve. The power harness has fuses, and each one must be pushed fully into its holder. Check these four points in order:

  1. Ring terminals straight on the battery terminals.
  2. Fuses: push each one in firmly.
  3. Switch on: the module's lights come on.
  4. Status 2 light blinks when data arrives from the GPS receiver.

Steps

  1. Turn the power harness switch off

    Find the on/off switch on the power harness and make sure it is off. It stays off until every cable is connected.

  2. Plan the route

    Lay the power harness loosely from the battery to the back of the tractor. That is where it meets the main harness, whose power leg is 12 ft long.

    Keep the route away from hot parts, such as the exhaust, and from anything that moves. Leave slack where the hitch turns.

  3. Find the tractor battery's terminals

    The battery has two terminals, marked + (positive) and − (negative). Connect to these and nothing else.

  4. Fit a ring terminal on the + terminal

    Not sure which harness lead is the positive one? Stop and call Ditch Assist support before you connect anything.

    Undo the nut on the battery's + terminal with your wrench. Slide the harness's positive ring terminal over the stud, put the nut back and tighten it.

  5. Fit the other ring terminal on the − terminal

    Do the same on the − terminal with the other ring terminal. Tighten the nut.

    Check it: wiggle each ring terminal. Neither should move.

  6. Plug the power harness into the main harness

    Push the Deutsch plug at the end of the power harness into the power leg of the main harness until its latch locks. It only fits one way round.

    Check it: pull gently on both sides of the joint. It must not come apart.

  7. Push each fuse fully in

    Press every fuse on the power harness all the way into its holder. A fuse that is only part way in can cut the power to the module and the receiver, which shows up as lost RTK.

  8. Tie the harness down

    Cable-tie the harness along the frame so nothing can pinch, stretch or snag it when the tractor turns. Leave a loose loop at the hitch.

Check it worked

Do this once the Control Module is mounted and all its cables are connected (Connect all cables).

  1. Switch the power harness on

    The lights on the Control Module come on. The Operating Status light shows the module has power.

  2. Remember where the switch is

    Switching it off is one of the three ways to stop hydraulic control in an emergency.

Common mistakes

  • Plugging into the trailer socket or a cab power strip because it's handy.
  • A fuse left half out of its holder.
  • The harness pulled tight across the hitch, so it stretches on a sharp turn.

If it doesn't work

  • No lights on the module: check the switch is on, the fuses are pushed in, the ring terminals are tight and the Deutsch plug is locked.
  • Wi-Fi keeps dropping, or the tablet won't connect: check the power comes straight from the battery. Then see Wi-Fi keeps dropping and Can't connect to the module.
  • RTK keeps dropping to Float (Float is a less accurate GPS fix than RTK Fixed): power is one cause, because the module powers the receiver. See RTK drops to Float.

Next: Fit and mount the valve (Full Automation Kit) or Mount the Control Module (Guidance Only Kit).

Did this answer your question?

Still stuck? Talk to a product specialist. 1-833-DITCH-AS · support@ditchassist.com · Monday to Friday, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Central.

Calling about a problem? Send your app logs first so support can see what happened.